Monday, December 7, 2009

Tools of the Trade

Yesterday I rode home from tutoring in my big fluffy black jacket. The girl I tutor lives on top of what might be the only hill in the Ruhrgebiet, so I have a heck of a time getting up to her. And if you know me, you know that I am usually late, so I book it up that hill in order to be German (on time). Anyway on the way up, I was super hot and tired, and going so slowly that I didn't even notice the brisk air. But on the way down that hill, whew baby! The wind in my face and the gravity pulling me down would have been just about enough to turn me into a different state of matter. But I was inside of this shell of goose feathers wrapped in nylon, living life in the fast lane (well, bike lane) on a cold winter night in Germany. And it made me think: there are some very essential tools that have allowed me to survive the first 3 months or so, and I thought I might share them with you so the next time you (lose your mind, or...) decide to move abroad and immerse yourself in boredom and foreignness, you can be better prepared than I.

Good Jacket:
As I stated before, the importance of being warm in this country can not be emphasized enough. Germany is cold, Germans like being cold, and Americans are not used to this (qualifier: this thin-skinned NC girl is not used to this.) But regardless, Germans really like this thing called "frische Luft" (fresh air) and will not be convinced to close the window even when its below 40 outside. So bring a cute coat. One that can be worn in the classroom, at the breakfast table, immediately after the shower, while cooking dinner...you catch my drift. Its COLD!

Good Bakery:
Life in Germany means lots of carbs--any American's arch enemy. But here, they have all sorts of complex sugar filled goodness...cakes, breads, tortes, rolls... That being said, it is clear to understand why there is a whole culture around bakeries here. Actually, today as I took my break at my favorite corner bakery, I heard a song that pays homage to either a Christmas Bakery or a Christmas Butcher. (Please note: the two words have extremely similar endings in German and both make sense culturally for Germans to sing ballads about. I hope this helps you to understand my confusion.) So this corner bakery has become an essential part of my happiness over here. It was the first place I ate a breakfast in Dinslaken and I have been back almost once a week since. They know my name and they appreciate my business just like an old fashioned place! I grab a breakfast roll, a little pot of coffee, and dig into a book for an hour or so. I have yet to have their cakes, but, oh man, if you saw a picture of their display case, you would be on a plane ASAP to come join me.

Good Book:
This leads me to my next tool. The good book. I came over here hoping to read all of these intense books that I would never read when actually doing something with my time. These titles included "Crime and Punishment", among others. This was not the best of ideas. When I say good book, I mean a story that is all-encompassing. Something that takes you straight up through the gray clouds and on top of the world with the sunshine warming you up from outside in. Germany can be a scary place and my school can be...frustrating, to say the least. So as soon as I open up one of those great books, I feel safe and hopeful. Books also help with the feeling of isolation that can become consuming over here. Of course I have internet, I'm actually chatting with my sister right now, but reading a book that I can smell and touch makes me feel like I have a friend at my side. And I must say, that my human friends have been really helpful in the books department. Because I brought such serious books, I have been on the hunt for more uplifiting titles. We have started a sort of book exchange. How great--what a romantic idea: a book exchange with Germans and fellow Americans living abroad. Its the little things.

Good Friends:
This is obvious. And I am not sure I can describe how exactally the people here have absolutely, positively, beyond any doubt made my time here worthwhile. This is clear by the tribute they received in an earlier post, but also in the fact that I am still in Germany. Emmersing myself in German culture is important, sure. Participating, embracing, enjoying a new world...yeah of course. But there comes a time when I need to shout out loud "Their water gets so f*#@ing HOT here!!" or "Where is the CHICKEN in this country??" Those little things build up and my friends help me release the pressure. It isn't all complaining, either. It is also so much fun to discover new things with familiar people. My American and Germans friends alike hold my hand and help me to keep my center as I reach for new experiences in my life here.

Good Sense of Humor:
It is really hard to decide which of these tools is most essential. Onc could argue that two mediocre coats would keep you warm, that a bakery is excessive when they have frozen rolls in the grocery store, or that friends can be found online, too. But there can be no concessions when it comes to a good sense of humor. I can not begin to fathom the number of awkward, scary, frustrating, sad situations I've been in since my arrival. The ONLY reason I am here is because I have been able to see (or someone else has been able to show me) the humor in the situation. An example of this that I keep in mind every day is the "Stuhl der Einsamkeit", or "Chair of Loneliness". A friend from Dortmond along with some British kids in the program came up with this title to describe our experience in the schools. It may sound a little dark, but it so perfectly describes the feeling of an English teaching assistent fighting against a tsunami of sterotypes and stuborness. Just picture me, sitting in the back of the class room. My eyes widen as I hear such phrases as "Not all Americans have equal rights." Despite my desperate hand waving, the lesson moves on and I swallow the bitter truth that my voice will not be heard on that matter. That is the chair of loneliness. It becomes something to laugh about with other people. Because when we all sit together in our lonely chairs, it becomes a circle of friends venting and smiling.

I hope you feel better prepared as you being to pack your bags to come live abroad. You see, there is no need for concern. With a few tricks up your sleeves, you'll be ready to hit the road and come join me in beautiful Germany!

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Thursday

Thursdays are good days. They always have been. I love the anticipation. On Thursday evening, they usually play the funniest shows, nowadays I am usually on my way to somewhere new, and the entire weekend is right around the corner. By the time Friday morning comes, sometimes I feel like I've already spent all of my excitement; each minute ticking by is one less ounce of weekend. But on Thursdays, there is always something to look forward to.
This morning I got up early to run...I've been doing this lately for a few reasons 1. to make room for more German cake 2. to see a different view of the world 3. i love early mornings. The tale end of darkness has such an effect on my mood. A dreary December sky is just black before the sun has a chance to point out its bleakness. The gradual changes in light, each moment a little brighter, each step a little lighter bring a feeling of hope to my soul. The feeling of starting off into darkness and ending in a dull, gray light, silent except for wind, is something only a morning can give you. Its' as good as a good long stretch before getting out of bed. My mind breathes deeply as my lungs fill with the sharp morning oxygen.
There is something sacred about mornings, too. Universal I might dare to say. Sleepy eyes, bad breath, scratchy voices...all of these things make me feel so human (Although, now that I think about it, Annie the dog usually had some pretty serious bags if she was awoken before her desired hour). And at the breakfast table, even 9 year olds are usually quite subdued (comparatively). Sitting around the table, silently munching on good bread with home-made jam, the only language anyone speaks before the sun rises is tiredness. It's a comprehensive language and culture. The morning culture. Running past lovers saying good bye before work or a trip, I see only sleepy hugs and baggy eyes whispering sweet nothings, as to not disturb the holy silence before the bird's first chirp. Morning quiet in Germany. There are dog walkers, trash collectors, lone wolves--each one with a head full of fresh thoughts for the day, or memories of turbulent dreams that may have aroused them at such an early hour. An ungodly hour? How about a humanly hour. Where my human-ness, my Menschlichkeit, shines like a morning star.
So I sit here in my red couch, looking out into the frosty sky with a cup of coffee in my hands. I am excited for the day: another pumpkin pie presentation for the 11th graders this time. I am about sick of pumpkin pie...The sun has already risen, but the sky is still a dull gray. Maybe later the clouds will part and let that big ole star show off a little bit.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Scatterbrained Happiness

So...recently I've been very excited about the weather changing (since that last post it hasn't rained a DROP!) to real winter and Christmas right around the corner, and I just want to shout it from the rooftops! We had that amazing Turkey dinner, and things have been picking up full speed since then. However, if you asked me to list the interesting things that have happened since then, you would get a bunch of mundane tiny events that just remind me of home (By home, I mean the one in the heart...the one that I am finally finding again over here. The real physical home can wait for a few weeks more).
I am pretty sure something mundane/interesting happened yesterday...OH! Yes, I gave a presentation on Alice's Restaurant, the song, yesterday after that crazy school post. The kids LOVED it. This crazy dude just saying a bunch of crap about some trash and something about Alice. They couldn't get enough of it and really cherished the sarcasm. So it got me asking myself: the idea of storytelling---do you guys think its an American thing? I was listening to an NPR broadcast about the newest Disney movie about Tiana, the New Orleans princess, with the 18 year old I tutor on Mondays. Her first comment was that the story was just so typical of Americans to talk about something as silly as the line outside the Disney store to buy merchandise for the new Black Disney princess. She asked me what consequence it has on American culture...why do Americans need to tell this story? Why do they STILL need to talk about race like that? It was so hard to explain, and it made me realize that "Erzaehlungen" or stories are part of who we are; it is how we understand ourselves and each other. Of course Germans like to talk too (I mean come on, Grimms' Tales...), and of course everyone has a history and a story to tell...it's human. But what about American stories make them so unique? The happy ending, to optimism, the sarcasm? The honesty? The song Alice's Restaurant is a giant, slightly annoying, 20 minute-long JOKE. The whole thing is an exaggeration, but it still speaks to so many peoples' true life stories. Just his everyday stuff keeps people listening to those few guitar measures over and OVER. It's funny ("Kill, Kill KILLLL"). It's serious (the draft, the arrest, the "criminal behavior"...). Above all it's life. It is an American life. And so this silly little NPR story is really about the many little girls who get to see a portrait of one of the many facets of American Life. We are understanding our country and our people through the day to day. A short trip to the mall that will inevitable change those little girls' lives forever because someone thought it was important enough to make their small steps a part of the great American culture.
So as I build my life over here, I hope to keep collecting my own small stories. My favorite place to do this is in my head, or into space as I talk to myself on my bike. I enjoy my anonymity over here for that reason specifically: it's OK if people think I'm a nutzo, because I'll be on the other side of an ocean soon enough. But the thought occurs to me often that my adventures here are not just mine to say creepily on my bike, but ones that can and should be told. They are important, not because I am important, but because telling of experiences can only foster wisdom in the teller and the tellee.
Speaking of the mundane, you know how like ever day in Winter you have to scrape ice off your windshield? Ok...now think about doing that but with a BIKE SEAT. I had FROST on my BIKE SEAT. Oh yeah, and I rode that baby home from the STUPID train station tonight. By the time I got home, both of my legs were completely numb. I am going to have to council with some Eskimos about how to stay warm.
One last thing I wanted to stay because its NUTS! The movie, American Beauty, is on the final exam for English students! Can you believe it! They have worksheets, tests, essays, analysis...all of this crap for one of the craziest American movies I can think of. Now here is where I would like your opinion...do you think this movie does a good job representing the American Dream? Do you see aspects of yourselves as Americans (if you are Americans...not sure what my reader population is), and, being completely honest, do you think this movie represents our society well? I look forward to your comments.

Monday, November 30, 2009

School Days

I have a two hour break right now. I got here at 9.50 for French class, and usually during this time I either go two blocks down the street to the tiny grocery store to get a piece of bread, or I hide myself in the conference room to take a nap. This break is super long, and since I have next to no work to do, I usually get quite sleepy. so I decided to write this baby up, in order to keep my brain active. I am currently sitting in the Oberstufe room, it is for the teachers who are in charge of the 11th, 12th, and 13th grades. They get their own private room with a big table and three computers. It is also the only room in the school that is ever more than 60 degrees (its about 64).
Anyway I thought I would tell you a bit about how school is going. After having literally begged and threatened my way into more work, I have finally had a few weeks where I felt like my presence was not only noticed, but appreciated! I gave a presentation on Creole culture the other day. The kids are reading A Streetcar Named Desire, so they are learning all about Louisiana...well lets say the are learning specific facts about the state and some small tidbits about the New Orleans culture. Nothing too comprehensive...because they have huge tests about ever 5 weeks. Its like having a final every five weeks. Needless to say its a lot stress for the students and leaves little free time for some silly American to present on her culture in class.
I did, however, get to make pumpkin pie for my AP course on Thursday. We talked about the history of Thanksgiving and Black Friday, and they at least all tried the pumpkin pie. They were all pretty weirded out by the pie...they have no concept of pie crust, nor do they understand the amount of sugar we put into our desserts. Chocolate cake in Germany is more like brown-colored bread with a little bit of sugar on it. Different, but still tasty. So we then went around the classroom and said what we are thankful for. It worked well--the kids took it seriously, and I think were very happy to have an opportunity to express themselves as individual human beings, rather than hard-working students. Although some students did not really get the difference between thanking someone and being thankful for something, so they just thanked me for bringing in the pie.
I just came from my French class, as I said, where I sit with a bunch of 8th graders who are in an advanced course. So they are already in the best type of high school possible, AND they are in an advanced class in the school. So, I think needless to say, they are quite proud of themselves. They also have a very close-knit community. These kids are expected to rule the country, and they are told this almost every day. Today we compared French schools to German schools. French schools are more similar to American schools in many respects: everyone gets to go to the same high school, the school day goes well into the afternoon, and students' behavior is strictly controlled while at school. (Personally I miss this, I cant name the number of times that I have been thrown into a wall or elbowed by some hoodlum 6th grader SPRINTING through the halls on the way to break.) The teacher intentionally painted this picture of a prison-like system, where idiots are together with geniuses, and the "intelligent" students have to babysit the "weak" or "lazy" students. Although I have been inundated with this attitude since I got here, I am still constantly surprised that even teachers will describe students, ESPECIALLY middle and high schoolers, as unintelligent! (You could at least wait until adulthood to give these people a chance to PROVE that they are idiots, because lets be honest here, everyone is a little idiotic in middle and high school.) Anyway, the students were totally astounded that the prison-like schools in France existed. And the teacher presented the German schools system as a dream-like paradise where they were extremely lucky to be surrounded by such intelligent people. (Lets talk about the dangerous hallways with full-speed trains of students or the back talking 12th graders, then ask who is lucky) Keep in mind, that while this was happening, down the hall was a drab classroom full of mostly Turkish students in the Hauptschule, who were probably there mostly due to language or cultural barriers. These are not often told they could run the country some day. Some of the kids in my French class even said, "Well what if you live in an area with a lot of immigrants? Do you have to be in the same classes as they are?" She responded "Unfortunately yes, if you live in that area you have to go to school with immigrants."
An important thing to remember here though, is that this is not unusual behavior for Germans...let me correct that. For the Germans I have met and have daily contact with. It is normal for the people I know here to expect to go to class, work, church, etc with people who look and talk like they do. And it is not a negative thing in this community to expect that kind of separation. As I look out the window over at the Hauptschule, I see only minorities, immigrants, or "Germans" who most likely have learning disorders or other problems that keep them from doing well at school. No one I have talked to about this is disturbed, actually they will very willingly defend the system. Describing an American public school is like trying to describe sharing to a 2 year old. They might say "well why should I have to give up some of my experience to make hers better?"
I will step off my soap box in a moment, but I wanted to make clear the attitudes of the teachers I see on a daily basis. These people are supportive teachers who care deeply about their students. But they expect a classroom full of students who can learn quickly, independently, and without any troubles. And even though there seems to be an elephant in the room about what "kind" of people go to which schools, no one seems to be troubled by this blatant separation.

Life otherwise is just swell. The sun has been shining for at least...3 hours. It will probably be pouring by the time I get on my bike to ride home, but its only about a 5 minute ride, then I will be safe and sound until my tutoring at 5.30. I will be making a tour of Christmas markets before I come home: Dortmond, Dinslaken, somewhere in Holland, Achen, and Gladbeck. I went to the one in Essen with an American friend and a British friend (that's right, I have friends all over this place!). Lots of cheer and fun...didn't find any amazing presents, but it was a unique experience, and it was nice to see a new side of German culture. We also had Thanksgiving on Saturday, I will post some pictures of that tonight--my big project.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Torrential Rain, Travels and Turkey

For some reason its been like torture trying to get this next blog out. I've been doing lots of fun stuff lately, but this rainy weather is just exhausting, and even though I am still spending most of the wet evenings on this red couch getting a computer tan, I am still just not motivated. And I think the forecast is rain for the next 7 months! (Honey, get the arc!)
I finally got the light on my bike fixed so I can ride in the rain, but, low and behold, its broken again. Super annoying, super mysterious. I think its a German gnome who doesn't want me out riding in the dark rain. Speaking of dark, it was still dark until the second period of school today.
So really fast: a run down of my travels in the past few weeks. I went to Duesseldorf, sponsored in full by the Northrhine Westphalia government! What a beautiful region I have to opportunity to live in! Its similar to the rust belt in the US...lots of scenic industry parks, run down factories, and old coal mines. I am particularlly impressed with the pride the people have in their pasts, though. We went to a beautiful and well-kept industry museum on our propaganda tour of the region, and were suddendly in a coal mine! It was mine-d blowing! Actually, I really am not a fan of working in the mine. Good thing I am an English teaching assistant here instead of a coal miner. Anyway, we also went to this old huge silo that is now a museum. It has a GIANT MOON in it! Can you believe it? A GIANT MOON! It also has other not-so-giant representations of all of the other planets and some stars. It was truly a magical place. Good for meditation and such...but...inside that old silo. Finally we ended the tour with a middle-of-the-night freeze-your-butt-off tour of an old industrial park that they turned into a museum. We got torches to talk through the park with and felt like we were back in the olden days. They make the old storage house into a restaurant. It was well made risotto, although, in typical German tradition, next to tasteless. You may have to wade through a bunch of sarcasm to see it, but I did enjoy my time in Duesseldorf. The Americans there (let's say...MOST of the Americans) there were super nice and just plain brilliant. I am so impressed us! I also had an opportunity to meet some other international language teaching assistants there, too. My roommates were Italians. So nice, so smart. And we got to speak German cause neither of us could speak our respective languages, how foreign.
And I was also able to go up to Kiel to see Jane...my sister's good friend from South Carolina. She and her husband live up there in a beautiful apparment with furniture that has arms and is more than 1 foot off the ground; and food that has flavor. It was a great time to just chill with friends while in Europe. We hopped over to Hamburg for the day and I saw the most beautiful church of my life! St Michaels. Just great! There is a lot of English influence in that city, according to Jane. And I noticed it right away. The shopping streets were bright with lots of lights and beautiful store displays. Everyone was setting up for the Christmas markets. Boy am I going to have a good time with those soon!
And finally in school, we have just started the American Dream unit. The students are learning all about how bad it is to live in America...jk. But I was (and still am) experiencing a lot of resistance from teachers and students, as well as others around in my daily life--a lot of people have a LOT of NEGATIVE things to say about the US. But so far I have been very impressed with this American Dream unit. Now of course, the expected "everyone in America has a gun and shoots their neighbors" argument is still very strong. And the teachers are very eager to point out that the death penality is barbaric but legal in the US, but in general this has been a unit that I have been glad to observe and take part in.
So all in all nothing too crazy happening right now. My big project this week is pumkpin pies for my classes on Thursday...made in a spring form pan. Oh yeah, did you know!?!? They don't have PIES at ALL here? Wow what a disappointment. (Although their cakes make up for it, in some ways.) Anyway, maybe I'll take a picture of what will surely be a strange pie to show you. And this weekend a bunch of Ami's are getting together to celebrate Thanksgiving. We are all meeting up at a friends house about an hour away. Some people are even traveling 3 hours to meet up! Boy am I thankful for my friends!
Happy Turkey Day to all!

Vocab:
Turkey: der Truthahn
Feast: das Fest
Family: die Familie
Friendship: die Freundschaft

Monday, November 9, 2009

Fire...Freiburg...Fahrvergnügen

Oh wow! So I guess Murphy's Law is legit--all that talk about ICEs in the last post got me in trouble...on my way to Freiburg, sitting happily in my seat watching Arrested Development, the train came to a sudden halt! The passengers were not phased, but the attendants went running left and right up and down the aisles...I was the only one who was the least bit disturbed. Not sure if that is the American in me or the Scorpio in me. Anyway, it was a true test in patience and trust in the Deutsche Bahn. We ended up waiting for two hours in the train without lights (but with Becks) and eventually had to switch to a new train. The engine had caught on fire!! But leave it to the Germans to act rationally and with little emotion (compare that to my normal reaction in such situations...). We were all safe...but it would not be a lie to say that I was freaked OUT.
Anyway, I finally got there and was able to have one more fun weekend with Erica before she finished up her time in Germany. It was just great! A college city is a college city anywhere, I think. The people were young, excited, accepting, and fun-loving. The main city was pretty small, but it was packed with tons of different types of places to eat and good shops. What I truly loved about this city was its diversity...well as diverse as you get in this country. We ate at Onkel Woks, an AMAZING Chinese place. We also had crepes, Mexican, and typical German. Now don't worry, eating is not the ONLY thing I'm doing here. We went for a trying hike up the hill into the depths of the Black Forest. A beautiful view of an incredible city. Another thing that I loved about that city was the monuments they had for the Jews who had been removed from the city and eventually executed. They were small plaques on the sidewalks outside of their residences. Very plain, very factual. They need not be too fancy, because just the thought of the people who were removed from the city stirs up so many complex emotions that the simplicity of the monument is appreciated.
I also got to meet up with an old friend from high school there. A real German! He was a sight for sore eyes. Konstantin lived in Charlotte junior year, and has been floating around in my life ever since. We have both grown up a lot, and I can not be happier to know that he is close by. I feel like a true world traveler to have friends in Germany.
Other than my trip to Freiburg, I have a bunch of little travels scattered in my time here before I head home for Christmas. I am always eager to get out of Dinslaken. As you probably grasped from my previous post, I am not too keen on riding my bike through the rain, cold, and gray to get out into the world. If I am going to do that stuff, it is nice to have a more exotic destination than school or the grocery store. But my every day life is not too dull these days, either. I usually only work a few hours a day. The rest of my time is spent riding my bike (do you notice a theme here...?), working out, eating, eating chocolate (an important distinction there!) and on the internet. It gets dark around 4.30 nowadays. So once I get settled in here on my red couch, I am reluctant to move.
It is difficult to get out and see people in the afternoons, but we Fulbright girls certainly make an attempt to do it. I have friends within 30 min to 2 hours on the trains...but after getting out of work at 2 and needing to be home for school the next day, it is not always possible.
I also have plans to host a movie club for the students at the the school. I am hoping that by showing them less-known movies and discussing them afterward outside of the classroom atmosphere, we will be able to talk about real issues in the US, rather than the sometimes contrived issues that are discussed in the English classes. But, unfortunately, the time I spend with the kids there counts towards my maximum of 12 hours a week in the classroom. So I still have the plethora of free time during the week.
So daily life is pretty...ordinary. It is not very German (except for the eating chocolate part), but nor is it very American. It is very Sadieingermanymakingherway. I have just recently been able to find some sort of nook in this crazy life. I really wish I had had a better understanding and better preparation for the way things work with the school, with Fulbright, and with Germany in general. But now that I am figuring things out, I am able to appreciate things a little more. For example, I really like the bread here. And I think its really fun to return plastic bottles for refunds (America, let's do this, too!). I think appreciation of bigger things, such as the school system, will come with time.


Now some belated vocab words!
Panic: die Panik
Burning: brennend
Candy: Suessigkeit
The Pleasure of Driving: Fahrvergnuegen

PS: Fahrvergnuegen doesn't really fit in this title. But I just realized that it is, in fact, a real word! How exciting!!

Monday, November 2, 2009

Travels in the Soutwest

Its been a long time! There's been lots of German and Inner-drama going on over here to keep me away from this ole blog. I think I last left you in the German Gymnasium, with moody teenagers and students antsy to get out for their Fall break. I too was ready to get out of Dodge--to dip my toes in the water of the romantic travels through Europe.
It started early early Friday morning with my first ICE train ride to Koblenz (ICEs RULE). Of course, I got the days wrong and so I had an entire day in Koblenz before my sister joined me there. The city is quaint, much like you would expect a small northeastern tourist town in the US. Except 2000 years old! Almost everything there was destroyed during the war (as it is in much of Germany) so there were a lot of bulidings rebulit to look like they once did. Restaurants dotted the map and kept tourists fed and happ. All of the pictures are in my Picasa (whether I can figure out how to link that is another matter). Friday night was quiet but necessary--its hard to hear yourself think in between school, living with a foreign family, and living in a foreign land in general. I had no idea how much I needed a break from everything. Lindsay arrived with bells on on Saturday, ready to take on Germany...right after a nap. It is so difficult to travel to Germany from the US--jetlag is KILLER! We did a lot of walking around in this city on the Rhine. There were plenty of English speakers and lots of patient people. We managed to find our way to a fortress, the Rhine and the Mosel rivers, a winery, and lots of ice cream and coffee shops.
Our American friend who is living in Kiel joined us for a few days and we had a great time eating and walking around. Its amazing how important is to take the time to sit and eat. We generally found Italian food to be the safest; in these resteraunts it was easiest to avoid pork. (I am having a serious pork overload.) There was no rush and no worries. We were able to enjoy each other's company, despite everyone being tired and sharing the dorm-like hotel room of the Scholz Hotel. (PS: If you care to hear more about the Scholz hotel, especially the generous hostess, please ask...Lindsay and I have some GREAT stories!)
We were also able to drive over to Bonn and see Beethoveen's birth house. It was great to think about new things, and to place the artist who played such an important role in my childhood and in my siblings' childhood in Germany. It always makes you feel a little more at home to make connections like that. Jane left, and Lindsay and I spent one last day in cold cold Koblenz, riding a bus (my first in Germany!) over to the fortress. It was surreal to leave her. Seeing family was like a dream from which I wasn't too keen to wake up.
Luckily I hopped on a train right away towards Frankfurt to meet Merianna, my bff (Best Fulbright Friend--one of them). WOW! Boy am I an American! Most Germans hate Frankfurt's skyline because of its skyscrapers and newness. I loved it! But we only just had a look as we hopped over to Koenberg...but then found out that we had the wrong city...so we hopped back to Frankfurt and then over to Wiesbaden. I only point this out because I want to emphasize how easy it was to get around. We had nowhere to be, no deadlines, and plenty of times to make mistakes. It was actually fun. It is such a different feeling to have time to make mistakes like that. And to enjoy the time on the trains between the random cities that we might happen upon.
We finally made it to Wiesbaden where we met about a million Americans. Not really, but the city is connected to a military base and also lots of international business. I had a GREAT time among all of the America-ness. Once again, not a favorite of Germans, and, in fact, Rick Steves thought it wasn't even worth visiting! Merianna and I had a great time just taking everything. We met her family friend in Frankfurt for an amazing, personalized tour of Frankfurt with food treats included. WOW! And, the cherry on this sundae, was the American brunch we treated ourselves to on our last morning together. We found a super cheesy American bar and loaded up on pancakes, omlettes, and bread. What a crazy treat! (Im sure some of you are thinking that Rick Steves was probably right about Wiesbaden, if there is an American-themed bar there...)
Anyway, the last leg of the trip I had two nights alone in Wiesbaden of much needed quiet, bread eating, and meditation. I made it down to see Erica in Stuehlingen. Very close to the Swiss boarder, very very far away from any sort of city life! It was amazing to see a sorority sister whom I could talk to about all of this stuff without even having to say anything. I can not emphasize enough how important it is to have friends to do nothing with.
It is so easy to leave homesickness, constant feelings of strangeness, and frustrations with the school and my job behind when traveling. I loved the feeling on the ICEs! Those trains were so clean, quiet, and fast! Sometimes I think if I could just ride the trains all around Germany and rely on such a punctual system, things would be so much easier than having to get on my bike and pedal through my life in Germany. So many times I have to pedal as fast as I can to make it on time (as opposed to the easier option of pressing on the gas in the States) and it becomes exhausting only to rush to places that are foreign and stressful.
But trains are not always on time, and actually the one to see Erica was swimming in coffee from a tragic accident with the coffee cart. So there is always a give and take. But I can't wait to take more train rides, to go through the countryside and see the world. It is by far the most fulfilling thing I've experienced so far--to sucessfully get to a destination, and be confident in my ability to lose and find myself over and over again.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Pictures

The Gymasium at GHS. This is where I spend most of my time. This building has rooms for all three schools. Those windows are the teachers lounge. I usually sit there and look out them like I am thinking about something really important.









Below are the Realschule (left) and Hauptschule. There are no Gym classes in the other two buildings, but some of the other kids come over to the Gym. for classes. The whole area is very pretty and wooded. Its a nice place to spend the day.

Schools

Its been a busy past few weeks--that is, it's been relatively busy for a girl who works 12 hours a week. This whole expedition is based around my participation at a school here, so I thought it might be a good idea to give good ole' GHS (Gustav Heinemann Schulzentrum) some justice. If you have the time, take a look at their (beautiful) (German) website. The words may provide you little, but you can see some pictures for yourself. I've also included a few pics of my own.

The German school system seems very strange to any American at first. Everyone gets to go to the same school when they are in primary school, its called "Grundschule". This is where the little girl in the family I am living with goes. You get to go there until 5th grade (about 10), when you are required to choose one of four choices: Gesamtschule, Hauptschule, Realschule, and Gymnasium. The Gesamtschule is something relatively new in Germany and is most similar to American High School. It is not the norm here, and a lot of Germans believe that it is not the right way to do things. A lot of teachers and parents have the firm belief that students should be seperated according to their abilities. Anyone can go to the Gesamtschule, regardless of grades and there are a couple of choices of what to do with your future (that is, there isn't a rule that prevents anyone from taking exams for college.)

The traditional German system is to split the kids up at 10 years old, according to how well they are doing in school. Hauptschule is for the kids who are really struggling and will probably be headed for jobs in the service industry. Realschule is the middle level, and the Gymnasium is for kids who will be going to University and having real carriers. These kids go to school for 13 years, take an "Abiture" exam, kind of like an SAT II. There is a huge difference between these three types of schools, and from what I've witnessed so far, it builds a lot of resentment between the students. It seems just totally unfair to decide who is smart enough to try for Uni and who isn't, but at the same time I see a level of honesty in this system. Some people are never interested in Uni, why should they go to school with kids who are? Except that a lot of the reason people go to Real/Haputschule is because of language barriers, NOT intelligence or ambition.

GHS is special because all three types of upper level schools are on the same campus. Students do not take classes together because teachers are assigned to different schools (pay levels differ, too), but they share hallways and all eat at the same Kiosk.
I witnessed my first incidence of "class-clash" when one of the 11th grade classes I assist was let out early. They were walking through a hallway which contained mostly Hauptschule rooms and droped a hollow, metal bike lock. It clanged and echoed down the hallway--was extremely loud and annoying. After their teacher told them to be quiet, they looked her in the eye and explained that she needn't be upset, because it wasn't disturbing any real learning, due to the fact that it was in the Hauptschule hall. WOW!

There was little response from the teacher, other than "well thats not nice." Which brings me to my other point. There is exteremely little dicipline in these classes. They are taught much like college classes. In fact, the kids are monitored at about the level of a college student. They could have only 2 classes a day, and their whereabouts are not counted for otherwise. But the students are kids. 10-19 years old. And in the younger classes, it becomes frustrating when dicipline is simply expected, but not demanded. Therefore, the teachers speak without being heard, ask questions without being answerd, and in general teach without anything being learned. This makes it nearly impossible for even a native speaker to follow the teacher, let alone a German student. I can't imagine trying to actually learn and participate in this situation. I am the first to admit that I am one for paying attention in class (or at least zoning out in a way that does not disrupt others), but I am not exaggerating here.

Aside from my frustrations, the school is a fun place to be. There is a giant teachers room where I hang out during my time off. It is a little bit like a high school cafeteria. Everyone has his or her own seats, and all of the bff's sit together. It is hard for me to find a cozy spot...it can get pretty cliquey. I usually sit myself on the sofa for visitors. That way I can talk to many people. That is also where people put food if they bring any in...so that's a plus too. Most German teachers are 30+ because they have to do a lot of school and practice before they get the degree. But they are nice; seems like the type of personality it takes to command a room full of smelly kids is universal. And the kids are all nice to me. So its a great place. Nice facilities and really hard working teachers.

Any school is going to have problems, and any school system is going to have issues. It is just a matter of understanding that the education is more important than the education system. I am teaching my first two classes next week because the kids are finishing up their units before Fall break. I will have to update on how all of that goes. Hopefully I will be able to teach about the US without having to address questions about the death penality, excessive spending, and politics. Wish me luck...

Monday, September 21, 2009

Friends

This weekend was an American one. I went to Essen, the closest big city, to meet a fellow American Fulbrighter there. Essen is "the shopping city", as they brag on their billboards. (Camera was dead, next post will involve pictures, I swear) There were lots of amazing stores mostly with clothes similar to anything I could find in the US. Except the shampoo bottles are smaller. Us two Fulbrighters had a wonderful afternoon full of cake, coffee, and, believe it or not, real, German bbq. Its amazing how similar our experiences are, but how our different perspectives bring us to completely different consequences about our situation. I am greatful to have another American perspective, especially from someone who knows the joys of the Fulbright scholarship.
After Essen, I went to Bochum to meet more Fulbrighters and hear similar stories. Bochum is slightly smaller than Essen. It has a more homey feel, with some very high-end clothing shops. We also happened to meet there one the weekend of a few festivals. Kindertag, the Onion Festival, and the Police Festival, to name a few. It was great to walk around and see the different displays. However, I am droaning on without even mentioning the reason for our pilgrimage! The Bermuda Triangle is a famous area of Bochum that contains countless bars, clubs, and places where one could find trouble if need be. It was suprising similar to the streets of Myrtle Beach in the middle of the summer...lots of themed bars with "good deals". But it was all European, of course, so it was much cleaner. The trip was a break from the reality of my German life; sometimes the phrase "ten months in Germany" hits me like a brick wall.
American friends can be a blessing: celebrating, comiserating, and living together in a foreign land creates a bond that I have yet to fully understand and appreciate (although I just know it is something special.) But while these people are priceless additions to the experience, I am eternally greatful for the one German student who has reached out to me in Dinslaken. I had coffee in the town nearby and talked for hours with her. I am amazed that she asked me to coffee, put up with my German, and afterwards escorted me to Essen out of the goodness of her heart. How lucky I am to have such a kind person in my life!
When things are going really slowly, it is easy for me to forget just why I decided to leave all of my friends, boyfriend, and family to come live in some place and teach some kids. But it comes down to the fact that my time here, more than accomplishing something huge at the school (muuuuch more to talk about there, in a later post), is for advancing in the field of human relationships. My truly unique opportunity in Germany is not to spread a magic dusting of love and understanding of America, but to learn and know people who I would have otherwise passed off as being fond of paperwork and not so fond of hugs.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Dumb vs Dumb

It has taken me a week to get this up and running. With all of the newness that inundates one while in a foreign country, I have been exhausted and hesitant to start posting (preferring sleep over typing). However, on this rainy, cold September day, the adventure begins.
There isn't much to say about the differences between life in Germany and life in the US. People live lives and try their hardest to be happy and healthy. The main difference comes from my own experience as a person who can't speak the language. It is amazing how a language can build a culture, and visa versa. I am fascinated at how even a place so familiar...with electricity, internet, tv (MTV at that) and all of the comforts that I find so important...can be so daunting and intimidating. Therefore, it is important to celebrate the small victories that come with living in a foreign place. For example, today I bought a yoga mat without having so speak English. I also signed up for a running club. Such simple tasks become great victories for me in Germany! "Simple" doesn't exist when everything must be translated.
I had a wonderful conversation (in Gernglisch) with my mentor-teacher this morning about the frustrations of living with native speakers as the state registered me as a legal visitor (that is a whoooole other story). There are countless benefits, but one of the most frustrating parts is not being able to speak to your intelligence level. I've made jokes about being the "educationally challenged" educator because I speak German on the level of a 6th grader, at most. (For this reason, the 9 year old I live with get along really well!) My level of education is clearly not 4th grade, however it is extremely difficult to exhibit intelligence when speaking slowly etc. The family all went to an extremely old town in Germany, Xanten, where the buildings are all from the 1500's. There was also a museum there that had 2000 year old artifiacts from when the Romans ruled this part of the world. I learned a LOT (like there were Romans in German 2000 years ago, who knew??) But there was no elegant way to say "this place is beautiful, sacred, and something that has enriched my life bla bla." It was simply "Good! This place is pretty!" (But with feeling). It is not that I am dumb, I am simply dumb. I fumble with the words, not the knowledge. It is amazing how imporatant being able to express myself has become even in this first week, and I am elated to be able to use the relatively few words that I have!
Aside from the language barriers, the Germans are warm, welcoming, and understanding people. I am almost as at home as I would be anywhere in the US. Before I came to Dinslaken, it was easy to pass off Germany as the collection of people visiting cities like Munich. It is quite obvious to me that the true character of the country does not shine brightly in the big cities; it is only when the daily lives of those living here is apparent that their character is too.

Now, as I learn the language, I will put in a list of some words that have been imporatant for me in the past few days. Some I have learned time and time again in school, but until now I haven't been able to remember them. Others are things you wouldn't think about saying until you didn't know how!

Duck das Ente
Barn das Barn
Race das Gerinne
Garlic das Knoblauch
weight lifting das Gewichtheben
powdered sugar der Puderzucker

Bis Spaeter!